Hitohira Tanaka Kyuzo Blue #1 Kurouchi Kiritsuke Sujihiki 240mm Yakusugi Cedar Handle
Out of stock
Sharpener: Kyuzo
Kyuzo's father Heihachi is one of the busiest sharpeners in Sakai. Heihachi's workshop room and corridor were always filled with knives waiting to be sharpened. Although Kyuzo initially worked under his father to learn the foundation of rough sharpening, eventually he became a student of Kambei, known as one of the best sharpeners in Sakai because he knew best how to sharpen wide double bevel knives. After a few years of training, he built his style based on both his father and Kambei's respective styles. Today, Kyuzo is one of only a few people who can sharpen wide double bevel with really good Shinogi-line in Sakai, one of the most challenging techniques in sharpening.
Message from Craftsman
Because Tanaka's way of quenching, knife does not produce a Kurouchi dark finish enough. So in order to produce the finish, which is both aesthetically pleasing and useful in protecting against rust, sharpener uses a special and secret technique that has been used in Sakai for a long time and etches the surface of the knife.
This way of finishing creates the dark and beautiful Kurouchi finish found on this special line. While both types of Kurouchi finishes can fade over time, the etching technique used by sharpener may fade faster.
This is not signed that anything is wrong with the blade. so please do not worry if this happens, as it is natural.
Detailed Spec
Brand: Hitohira ひとひら (一片)
Smith: Tanaka Blacksmith 田中打刃物製作所
Producing Area: Sakai-Osaka/ Japan
Profile: Kiritsuke Sujihiki
Size: 240mm
Steel Type: Carbon Steel
Steel: Yasuki Blue (Aogami) #1, Soft Iron Clad
Handle: Yakusugi Cedar & Buffalo Horn Ferrule Octagonal
Total Length: 391mm
Edge Length: 230mm
Handle to Tip Length: 245mm
Blade Height: 35mm
Thickness: 2.7mm
Handle Length: 146mm
Weight: 145g
Hand Orientation: Ambidextrous
Sharpener: Kyuzo
Maintenance & Care
CARE AND MAINTENANCE:
NEVER PUT YOUR KNIVES IN THE DISHWASHER! That's it, and it applies to all knives. There are far too many chemical processes and changing heat effects for it to be good for anything made of steel. Most stock material cannot withstand it either.
You can roughly divide knives into two categories when we talk about care and maintenance; carbon knives (carbon knives) and stainless/semi stainless knives.
Carbon steel can be sharpened insanely sharp and holds an egg well (edge retention), but can rust and patina. Stainless steel has the advantage of being less prone to rust, but is not quite as sharp. Roughly speaking, because there are gradually many stainless "super steels" that have close to the same properties as carbon steel.
USE
Pay attention to how hard the knife is hardened. Be especially careful with knives of 60 hrc and above. Hard foods can "chip" the blade. Be careful with fruit stones, bones, shellfish, woody stems or very hard cheese. Frozen foods are a total no-go.
Your cutting board plays a big role. Use wood. Endwood is particularly good. Plastic can also be fine, but definitely not glass, granite or bamboo. Hinogi (cypress) is particularly good and otherwise there are from the very top shelf, rubber cutting boards with wooden handles.
Scraping the edge of the knife sideways will dull or damage your knife. Instead, use the back of the knife to move items across the cutting board. Do not twist the edge or pry the tip and for the record, your knife is NOT a screwdriver!
CLEANING
After use, wash the knife by hand with ordinary washing-up liquid, rinse with warm water and dry immediately. No dishwasher! Highly reactive steel, such as white #1, can be advantageously wiped off regularly during use. These types of steel can benefit from a little oil on the steel from time to time.
Wooden handles can dry out over time and exposure to water. Simply treat them with some food-safe mineral oil or beeswax. Can possibly lightly sanded with sandpaper before and after.
STORAGE
Take care of the egg, for your own sake and the sake of the knife. A saya (sheath) is optimal, but a simple blade cover will be fine if you store knives in a drawer or travel bag. Loosely lying in a drawer is a super bad solution.
A wall magnet made of wood is a great way to display your knives. Be sure to put it back on the spine first, then roll it on the surface of the blade. This will prevent the egg from making contact with the tree first. Steel knife magnets are a bad idea as they will scratch the blade of the knife.
Knife blocks are not optimal, neither for the egg nor for hygiene.
MAINTENANCE
All knives should be straightened before each use. This is best done on a leather strap. Steel irons are unsuitable for knives with a hardness of 59 and above. A ceramic version can be used here, but you have to be aware that it will grind and remove steel every time you use it. It is not appropriate if the egg simply needs to be "raised". We can help with leather straps and their use.
When the knife gradually becomes so dull that a definite sharpening is unavoidable, this is best done on a wet stone or a slow-moving sharpening machine. If you don't have the skills or the courage, drop it off with us and we'll take care of it.