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Hitohira Tanaka Ren White #2 Gyuto 210mm Ho Wood Handle

Regular price $223.00

Out of stock

Håndsmedet af mester-smed Tanaka og efterfølgende slebet af en ung talentfuld sliber ved navn Ren.

Ren bliver stadig anset som værende lærling og hans arbejde bliver derfor solgt ekstraordinært billigt.

Ren’s slibning er dog utrolig lækker og du har derfor mulighed for erhverve dig en kniv i verdensklasse til en super pris. Samtidig er du med til at støtte Ren’s udvikling gennem hans læretid hvilket vi også selv gerne vil støtte op omkring.

Den ekstraordinære gode pris varer derfor heller ikke ved, så køb din imens du kan.

Knivens kerne er i Shirogami 2 (White#2), udmærker sig ved dets renhed og derved evne til at kunne slibes ekstremt skarp.

Grundet stålets renhed, skal med dermed også forvente en relativ hurtig patinering ved brug. Den flotte blå patina giver kniven charme og karakter, men det danner samtidig en beskyttende hinde mod yderligere oxidering af overfladen.

Det anbefales at kniven tørres sf direkte efter brug og opvaskemaskine er selvfølgelig et no-go.

Stålet er hårdt og det frarådes derfor også at skære i hårde emner som brusk, ben og frostvarer.


Brand: Hitohira ひとひら
Smith: Tanaka Blacksmith 田中打刃物製作所
Producing Area: Sakai-Osaka/ Japan
Profile: Gyuto
Size: 210mm
Steel Type: Carbon Steel
Steel: Yasuki White (Shirogami) #2, Soft Iron Clad
Handle: Ho Wood & Buffalo Horn Ferrule Octagonal
Total Length: 353mm
Edge Length: 203mm
Handle to Tip Length: 213mm
Blade Height: 46mm
Thickness: 2.3mm
Handle Length: 140mm
Weight: 111g
Hand Orientation: Ambidextrous
Sharpner: Ren

Maintenance & Care


NEVER PUT YOUR KNIVES IN THE DISHWASHER! That's it, and it applies to all knives. There are far too many chemical processes and changing heat effects for it to be good for anything made of steel. Most stock material cannot withstand it either.

You can roughly divide knives into two categories when we talk about care and maintenance; carbon knives (carbon knives) and stainless/semi stainless knives.

Carbon steel can be sharpened insanely sharp and holds an egg well (edge ​​retention), but can rust and patina. Stainless steel has the advantage of being less prone to rust, but is not quite as sharp. Roughly speaking, because there are gradually many stainless "super steels" that have close to the same properties as carbon steel.


Pay attention to how hard the knife is hardened. Be especially careful with knives of 60 hrc and above. Hard foods can "chip" the blade. Be careful with fruit stones, bones, shellfish, woody stems or very hard cheese. Frozen foods are a total no-go.

Your cutting board plays a big role. Use wood. Endwood is particularly good. Plastic can also be fine, but definitely not glass, granite or bamboo. Hinogi (cypress) is particularly good and otherwise there are from the very top shelf, rubber cutting boards with wooden handles.

Scraping the edge of the knife sideways will dull or damage your knife. Instead, use the back of the knife to move items across the cutting board. Do not twist the edge or pry the tip and for the record, your knife is NOT a screwdriver!


After use, wash the knife by hand with ordinary washing-up liquid, rinse with warm water and dry immediately. No dishwasher! Highly reactive steel, such as white #1, can be advantageously wiped off regularly during use. These types of steel can benefit from a little oil on the steel from time to time.

Wooden handles can dry out over time and exposure to water. Simply treat them with some food-safe mineral oil or beeswax. Can possibly lightly sanded with sandpaper before and after.


Take care of the egg, for your own sake and the sake of the knife. A saya (sheath) is optimal, but a simple blade cover will be fine if you store knives in a drawer or travel bag. Loosely lying in a drawer is a super bad solution.

A wall magnet made of wood is a great way to display your knives. Be sure to put it back on the spine first, then roll it on the surface of the blade. This will prevent the egg from making contact with the tree first. Steel knife magnets are a bad idea as they will scratch the blade of the knife.

Knife blocks are not optimal, neither for the egg nor for hygiene.


All knives should be straightened before each use. This is best done on a leather strap. Steel irons are unsuitable for knives with a hardness of 59 and above. A ceramic version can be used here, but you have to be aware that it will grind and remove steel every time you use it. It is not appropriate if the egg simply needs to be "raised". We can help with leather straps and their use.

When the knife gradually becomes so dull that a definite sharpening is unavoidable, this is best done on a wet stone or a slow-moving sharpening machine. If you don't have the skills or the courage, drop it off with us and we'll take care of it.

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