Hitohira Togashi White #2 Kurouchi Santoku Tagayasan act
Out of stock
Handmed by Master-Smith Kenji Togashi and then sanded to perfection by his son Kenya Togashi.
The knife is built with a hard core of Shirogami #2, enclosed by a soft layer of steel on each side.
The core of the knife in Shirogami 2 (White#2), stands out by its purity and thereby the ability to be extremely sharp. The knife egg is formed ultra fine and the thin profile of the leaf ensures a cutting capacity out of the ordinary.
Due to the purity of the steel, thus also expect a relatively rapid patination when used. The beautiful blue patina gives the knife charm and character, but at the same time it forms a protective membrane against further oxidation of the surface.
It is recommended that the knife be dried SF directly after use and dishwasher is of course a no-go.
The steel is hard and it is therefore also advised not to cut hard items such as cartilage, legs and frozen products
Specs:
Brand: Hitohira ひとひら (一 片)
Smith: Togashi Blacksmith 富樫 打刃物 製作 所
Producing Area: Sakai-Osaka/ Japan
Profile: Santoku
Steel Type: Carbon Steel
Steel: Yasuki White (Shirogami) #2, Soft Iron Clad
Handle: Tagayasan & Ebony Ferrule Octagonal
Total Length: 318mm
EDGE LENGTH: 167MM
Handle two tip length: 184mm
Blade Height: 49mm
Thickness: 2.2mm
Handle Length: 133mm
Weight: 160g
Hand Orientation: Ambidextrous
Sharper: Kenya Togashi
Maintenance & Care
CARE AND MAINTENANCE:
NEVER PUT YOUR KNIVES IN THE DISHWASHER! That's it, and it applies to all knives. There are far too many chemical processes and changing heat effects for it to be good for anything made of steel. Most stock material cannot withstand it either.
You can roughly divide knives into two categories when we talk about care and maintenance; carbon knives (carbon knives) and stainless/semi stainless knives.
Carbon steel can be sharpened insanely sharp and holds an egg well (edge retention), but can rust and patina. Stainless steel has the advantage of being less prone to rust, but is not quite as sharp. Roughly speaking, because there are gradually many stainless "super steels" that have close to the same properties as carbon steel.
USE
Pay attention to how hard the knife is hardened. Be especially careful with knives of 60 hrc and above. Hard foods can "chip" the blade. Be careful with fruit stones, bones, shellfish, woody stems or very hard cheese. Frozen foods are a total no-go.
Your cutting board plays a big role. Use wood. Endwood is particularly good. Plastic can also be fine, but definitely not glass, granite or bamboo. Hinogi (cypress) is particularly good and otherwise there are from the very top shelf, rubber cutting boards with wooden handles.
Scraping the edge of the knife sideways will dull or damage your knife. Instead, use the back of the knife to move items across the cutting board. Do not twist the edge or pry the tip and for the record, your knife is NOT a screwdriver!
CLEANING
After use, wash the knife by hand with ordinary washing-up liquid, rinse with warm water and dry immediately. No dishwasher! Highly reactive steel, such as white #1, can be advantageously wiped off regularly during use. These types of steel can benefit from a little oil on the steel from time to time.
Wooden handles can dry out over time and exposure to water. Simply treat them with some food-safe mineral oil or beeswax. Can possibly lightly sanded with sandpaper before and after.
STORAGE
Take care of the egg, for your own sake and the sake of the knife. A saya (sheath) is optimal, but a simple blade cover will be fine if you store knives in a drawer or travel bag. Loosely lying in a drawer is a super bad solution.
A wall magnet made of wood is a great way to display your knives. Be sure to put it back on the spine first, then roll it on the surface of the blade. This will prevent the egg from making contact with the tree first. Steel knife magnets are a bad idea as they will scratch the blade of the knife.
Knife blocks are not optimal, neither for the egg nor for hygiene.
MAINTENANCE
All knives should be straightened before each use. This is best done on a leather strap. Steel irons are unsuitable for knives with a hardness of 59 and above. A ceramic version can be used here, but you have to be aware that it will grind and remove steel every time you use it. It is not appropriate if the egg simply needs to be "raised". We can help with leather straps and their use.
When the knife gradually becomes so dull that a definite sharpening is unavoidable, this is best done on a wet stone or a slow-moving sharpening machine. If you don't have the skills or the courage, drop it off with us and we'll take care of it.