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Morihei Kikuyu White #2 Kurouchi Nakiri 165mm poplar act

Regular price $101.00

Out of stock

Note that since the knife is hand -fed, it is expected that goals and weight may vary slightly and small "beauty flaws" may occur. On the other hand, you get a unique knife with soul and charm. The shaft is made of poplar wood with plastic ferrule. Not the nicest, but it is hardy and helps keep the knife down in price. We will be happy to change it if you want another.

Core steel of Shirogami-2 (White 2) which is hard and keeps the sharpness really good. Due to the hardness of the steel, one must be careful not to cut hard items such as legs, cartilage and frost, as small fractures can then occur in the egg.

The knife is not stainless, so extra care and care should be expected and it is therefore recommended that the knife be washed and dried directly after use.

The steel develops patina over time and the blade will have a matte and darker appearance.

Like all knives, this particularly does not withstand dishwasher.

All knives can be seen and tested in the store.

Specs:

Brand: Morihei 森平

Profile: Nakiri
Size: 165mm
Steel Type: Carbon Steel
Steel: Yasuki White (Shirogami) #2, Soft Iron Clad
Handle: Poplar & Plastic Ferrule Oval
Total Length: 305mm
EDGE LENGTH: 160mm
Handle two tip Length: 175mm
Blade Height: 52mm
Thickness: 2.6mm
Handle Length: 128mm
Weight: 145g
Hand Orientation: Ambidextrous

Maintenance & Care

CARE AND MAINTENANCE:

NEVER PUT YOUR KNIVES IN THE DISHWASHER! That's it, and it applies to all knives. There are far too many chemical processes and changing heat effects for it to be good for anything made of steel. Most stock material cannot withstand it either.

You can roughly divide knives into two categories when we talk about care and maintenance; carbon knives (carbon knives) and stainless/semi stainless knives.

Carbon steel can be sharpened insanely sharp and holds an egg well (edge ​​retention), but can rust and patina. Stainless steel has the advantage of being less prone to rust, but is not quite as sharp. Roughly speaking, because there are gradually many stainless "super steels" that have close to the same properties as carbon steel.

USE

Pay attention to how hard the knife is hardened. Be especially careful with knives of 60 hrc and above. Hard foods can "chip" the blade. Be careful with fruit stones, bones, shellfish, woody stems or very hard cheese. Frozen foods are a total no-go.

Your cutting board plays a big role. Use wood. Endwood is particularly good. Plastic can also be fine, but definitely not glass, granite or bamboo. Hinogi (cypress) is particularly good and otherwise there are from the very top shelf, rubber cutting boards with wooden handles.

Scraping the edge of the knife sideways will dull or damage your knife. Instead, use the back of the knife to move items across the cutting board. Do not twist the edge or pry the tip and for the record, your knife is NOT a screwdriver!

CLEANING

After use, wash the knife by hand with ordinary washing-up liquid, rinse with warm water and dry immediately. No dishwasher! Highly reactive steel, such as white #1, can be advantageously wiped off regularly during use. These types of steel can benefit from a little oil on the steel from time to time.

Wooden handles can dry out over time and exposure to water. Simply treat them with some food-safe mineral oil or beeswax. Can possibly lightly sanded with sandpaper before and after.

STORAGE

Take care of the egg, for your own sake and the sake of the knife. A saya (sheath) is optimal, but a simple blade cover will be fine if you store knives in a drawer or travel bag. Loosely lying in a drawer is a super bad solution.

A wall magnet made of wood is a great way to display your knives. Be sure to put it back on the spine first, then roll it on the surface of the blade. This will prevent the egg from making contact with the tree first. Steel knife magnets are a bad idea as they will scratch the blade of the knife.

Knife blocks are not optimal, neither for the egg nor for hygiene.

MAINTENANCE

All knives should be straightened before each use. This is best done on a leather strap. Steel irons are unsuitable for knives with a hardness of 59 and above. A ceramic version can be used here, but you have to be aware that it will grind and remove steel every time you use it. It is not appropriate if the egg simply needs to be "raised". We can help with leather straps and their use.

When the knife gradually becomes so dull that a definite sharpening is unavoidable, this is best done on a wet stone or a slow-moving sharpening machine. If you don't have the skills or the courage, drop it off with us and we'll take care of it.

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